No Home Delivery of WS-6-MINI

[wayneorack]

Sounds like you talked Chris into building the WS-6MINI just for you!

[lligetfa]

Here are some before and after pics of the TS8 and the MINI. First off, I just want to say that for my use, the TS8 has been stellar, no complaints. In no way do I want to disparage it but as I mentioned in my back story, I needed a solution.

This is how I had the TS8 in the roundtop. The other 3 cams are outside:

TS8-before.jpg (642.79 KiB) Viewed 19088 times

This is the after, cut over to the MINI:

TS8-after.jpg (691.25 KiB) Viewed 19088 times

And this is a screenshot of the MINI:

MINI-after.jpg (253.93 KiB) Viewed 19088 times

[lligetfa]

Sounds like you talked Chris into building the WS-6MINI just for you!

Ja, you'd almost think.

[ryanm]

So, to power the WS-6-Mini... can I use passive 48v PoE with something like this:
http://find-a-poe.com/product/WS-GPOE-1-WM/
and a 48v dc power supply to power the switch?

Is there a 12v injector that will power it (similar to the tycon TP-DCDC-1248, but higher current and gigabit)?


Are there any metrics on the current draw for this switch?

[sirhc]

You can power the MINI with one of the following options:

OPTION 1:
It can be powered by special POE injector like one from an airFIBER that uses ALL FOUR PAIRS, you can not power it with just using pins 4,5, & 7,8 as it will not be able to get enough power and you will damage the Ethernet Transformers.

We will also sell a 1.8A POE Adapter.

OPTION 2:
A passive POE switch that supports 48VH like the WISP switch that can deliver 1.5 to 2A ON ALL FOUR PAIRS.

OPTION 3:
A 1.2A to 2A power adapter with a barrel connector which we will sell one of these (65 watts).


As far as the switch current draw I think Les mentioned above that the switch can take 4-8 watts just for the switch itself depending on how many ports are linked up (active PHYs)

[ryanm]

Will the Tycon TP-DCDC-2456G-VHP work with it? Can the switch go up to 56v?
http://tyconpower.com/products/files/TP ... _Sheet.pdf

[lligetfa]

I think the 48V out will follow the 48V in. You can use the Tycon POE-INJ-1000-DIN shielded passive power over Ethernet inserter to insert regulated 48V.

One reason I can think of to go that route rather than just use the barrel connector is when you are inserting power a long distance from the MINI. That way the MINI can be a distance extender.

[lligetfa]

OPTION 4: - MAYBE (we are workingon this)
If you have an 802.11at switch that can deliver 30W-50W

****We did design the hardware into the switch to communicate to 802.11at switches and request 50W but we are working on the software.

If you decide to go that route, it will open up the market to non-WISPs that don't need as much wattage. It might even make a good add-on to the EdgeSwitch.

As far as the switch current draw I think Les mentioned above that the switch can take 6-8 watts just for the switch itself. We are working on software to reduce this as there are more PHY's in the switch core then we are using but I do not think we have them shut off in the BETA firmware Les is using.

6W is what the MINI consumes now. The 8W mentioned included a 2W draw from an airCam. If you can shave off a watt or two, it will help to either increase the available to downstream devices, allow it to work better with 80.3at should you choose to enable that, or simply save on battery at solar sites.

[ryanm]

I think the 48V out will follow the 48V in. You can use the Tycon POE-INJ-1000-DIN shielded passive power over Ethernet inserter to insert regulated 48V.

One reason I can think of to go that route rather than just use the barrel connector is when you are inserting power a long distance from the MINI. That way the MINI can be a distance extender.

Thanks!. What I'm looking for (at present) is an application to go on a solar relay site. I'd like to put this switch part way up the tower. This site will have 2 rockets doing relay through the tower and a nanobeam/nanobridge serving one local connection.
I don't really have any need or plan to have switching at the base at this time.

My preferred solution would be to have a DC-powered wisp switch at the base powering the mini... but I don't need a switch in that spot yet.

I'm not quite ready to put it up yet... I spent all yesterday measuring and cutting guy wire for the tower.

[lligetfa]

I have been grappling what to do with Port 2 since it puts 24V or 48V on all 8 wires and depending on the device that is connected, I was concerned about shorting it out or defaulting the device. I made enquiries in a couple of threads including http://community.ubnt.com/t5/airMAX-Gen ... 431#M48543 and was told that it most likely wouldn't work for any of the devices I had in mind to use.

Anyway, as seen in that thread, flipper came through for me. I have a UAP Pro connecting and working fine.

Selection_011.jpg (256.37 KiB) Viewed 19038 times